|Bratwurst in Lübeck – on a proper plate|
Back in 2000, my parents visited the country for the first time as part of an organised trip to see the Oberammergau Passion Play.
Performed by the village people every 10 years or so since 1634, the millennium staging coincided with my father’s retirement, so his parishioners had thought it a fitting present.
The thing that worried him most was the very fact of going to Germany – for some, The War has never really ended.
Indeed, as I have
been reminded more than once, “we didn’t win the war just so the Jerries could
rule us through the EU!” and as I remember clearly when coming home from my
first day in the second year at Fairfield High School for Girls: “We didn’t win
the war so that you should have to learn German!”
|That all-important first beer of the trip|
But while scenery and beer might be attractions, one thing that is not standardly viewed as a selling point for Germany is cuisine.
After all, it’s really just sausages and pickled cabbage, isn’t it?
As only a slight aside, it should be noted here that sauerkraut is not pickled, but is fermented, with the finely-shredded vegetable layered between salt in barrels.
But back to sausages.
|Matjes herring with a jacket potato|
But back to Germany and wurst.
|Breakfast, with fish and small frikadellen|
But that really was my sole taste of wurst on this trip, although and I was delighted to find a gift box of three tins of Bavarian weißwurst and a small jar of the latter in Hamburg Airport on the way home.
|"A great British tradition"|
The flesh is firm, boneless, easy to digest and has a delightful, delicate taste. It can be served with a variety of sauces, including a very traditional one of sour cream or yogurt, and dill.
Passing a small shop in Travemünde itself gave an opportunityfor a glance into northern German fish culture – an absolute Aladdin’s cave of piscene wonderfulness.
|The Swinging Mods set the beat|
On the Sunday night, we hit a restaurant on the water front, where we enjoyed a vast spread of cod, with fresh cucumber salad, buttered potatoes and pickled cucumber and a mustard, cream sauce on the size.
We had one below-par meal – but that was more a question of the restaurant being in chaos, only one man being in the kitchen and clearly refusing to try to speed up to keep up with the influx of customers.
And breads too – again, the breakfast buffet included several varieties of traditional German breads, most of them organic. I’m not quite a pumpernickel girl, but I do love a good volkornbrot, a traditional whole wheat bread.
Beer everywhere was, of course, clean and a pleasure to enjoy – slowly!
|Serious, serious chocolate cake|
We had two evening meals in the hotel restaurant – of which much more another time. But all this – the much more ‘humble’ fodder – had more than enough to recommend it and more than enough to make it memorable.
But oh, oh, oh – the herrings!